Thailand's domestic transport is accessible, efficient, and inexpensive. If your time is short, fly. But if you have the time to take in the countryside, travel by bus, train, or private car. Read on for details about all your transport options.

By Plane:

Bangkok's newly reopened and now the country's largest domestic airport, Don Mueang Airport (airport code DMK), may not be as glitzy as the newer Suvarnabhumi International Airport (airport code BKK), but it still works fairly well. Airports in other cities usually tend to be more basic but will have money-changing facilities, information counters, and waiting ground transportation. In very small towns, you'll have to arrange airport pickup either through your hotel or the airline.

Most domestic flights are on Thai Airways, part of Thai Airways International, 89 Vibhavadi Rangsit Road, Bangkok 10900 (tel. 02545-1000), with Bangkok as its hub. Flights connect Bangkok with 11 domestic destinations, including Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Phitsanulok, Krabi, and Phuket. There are also some connecting flights between these cities.

The budget subsidiary of Thai Airways, Nok Air (tel. 1318) has a head office in the Sathorn district. It operates on lesser used routes, as does the no-frills carrier One-Two-GO (tel. 02229-4260) based at Asoke, in the Klong Toey district. Note: A flight from Bangkok to Phuket on One-Two-GO Airlines crashed in September 2007, and investigations into its cause were still ongoing at the time this book went to press.

The rapidly expanding fleet at Bangkok Airways, 99 Moo 14, Vibhavadirangsit Rd., Chom Phon, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900 (tel. 02265-5678 or -5555 for reservations), now covers 19 destinations across Asia and is the sole operator of the Phuket to Koh Samui, and Bangkok to Trat routes. It also has international flights from Singapore, Vietnam, Japan, Myanmar, Laos, China, and Cambodia, as well as a new route to The Maldives.

Serving northeastern cities, and Danang in Vietnam, PB Air (tel. 02261-0220) is a less well known carrier. SGA Airways, 19/18-19 Royal City Ave., Block A, Rama IX Road, Kwang Bangkapi Huay Kwang, Bangkok (tel. 02641-4190) is a professional outfit using 12-seater Cessna Grand Caravan aircraft for short domestic hops from Chiang Mai up to Pai, Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, and the useful Bangkok to Hua Hin route. Flying out of Suvarnabhumi International Airport, they can be chartered for private use. A small fleet of amphibious light aircraft owned by newcomer Destination Air (tel. 07632-8637) fly out of Phuket to most of the major resorts like Krabi, Koh Phi Phi, and Koh Lanta.

Also check what's on offer from Malaysian budget carrier Air Asia (tel. 02515-9999 in Bangkok). They now fly between Bangkok and 11 Thai cities, as well as offering good value fares internationally.

Note that as of 2007, the 700B (US$20/£11) airport tax is now included in the price of all international air tickets, as are the domestic airport taxes.

By Car:

Renting a car may be easy in Thailand, but driving it is another matter. Driving a rental car in Bangkok is particularly hard; the one-way streets, poor and even incorrect road signage, and constant traffic jams prove frustrating. Outside the city, it is a better option, although Thai drivers are unashamedly reckless -- many never learned to drive, ignore basic rules, and have a total disregard for road safety. Foreign drivers must reorient themselves fast and Americans need to readjust to driving on the left.

Among the many car-rental agencies, both Avis (tel. 02255-5300) and Budget (tel. 02566-5067) each have convenient offices around the country. You can rent a car with or without a driver. All drivers are required to have an international driver's license. Self-drive rates start around 1,500B (US$43/£23) per day for a family-sized sedan, much more for luxury vehicles or SUVs.

Local tour operators in larger destinations such as Chiang Mai, Phuket, or Koh Samui will rent cars for considerably less money than the larger, more well-known agencies. Sometimes the savings are up to 50%. All companies will need to see your international driver's license and a valid credit card, in case of damage. Check insurance coverage -- if you are taken to court for an accident, you may be found guilty for not being properly covered. Don't sign unless it's included.

Gas stations are conveniently located along highways and in towns and cities throughout the country. Esso, Shell, Caltex, and PTT all have competitive rates.

Surfing for Car Rentals -- For booking rental cars online, the best deals are usually found at rental-car company websites, although all the major online travel agencies also offer rental-car reservations services. Priceline and Hotwire work well for rental cars, too; the only "mystery" is which major rental company you get, and for most travelers the difference between Hertz, Avis, and Budget is negligible.

By Train:

Bangkok's Hua Lampong Railway Station is a convenient, user-friendly facility. Clear signs point the way to public toilets, coin phones, the food court, and baggage check area. A Post & Telegraph Office, Information Counter, police box, ATMs, and money-changing facilities are dotted around the main area. You'll find plenty of small convenience shops and a baggage check.

From this hub, the State Railway of Thailand provides regular service to destinations as far north as Chiang Mai, northeast to Nong Khai, east to Pattaya, and south to Thailand's southern border, where it connects with Malaysia's Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTM) with service to Penang (Butterworth), Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore. Complete schedules and fare information can be obtained at any railway station or by calling Hua Lampong Railway Station directly at tel. 02223-7010, or call their information hotline at tel. 1690.

The State Railway runs a number of different trains, each at a different speed, and priced accordingly. First-class sleepers usually accord an air-conditioned, two-bunk compartment with wash basin; second-class sleepers are bunks with curtains and either ceiling fans or air-conditioning, depending on the ticket price. The fastest is the Special Express, which is the best choice for long-haul, overnight travel. These trains cut travel time by as much as 60% and have sleeper cars -- which are a must for really long trips. Rapid trains are the next best option. Prices vary for class, from air-conditioned sleeper cars in first class to air-conditioned and fan sleepers or seats in second, on down to the straight-backed, hard seats in third class.

Warning: On trains, pay close attention to your possessions. Thievery is common on overnight trips. Also make sure if you are traveling solo that you state your sex when booking. The ticket agents won't put two strangers of opposite sexes together in first class, so don't be baffled if you are told the class is "full" when in fact there are bunks. In that case, you may have to downgrade.

By Bus:

Thailand has a very efficient and inexpensive bus system, which is highly recommended for budget travelers and short-haul trips. Buses are the cheapest transportation to the farthest and most remote destinations in the country. Options abound, but the major choices are public or private and air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned. Longer bus trips usually depart in the evenings to arrive at their destination early in the morning. Whenever you can, opt for the VIP buses, especially for overnight trips. Some have 36 seats; better ones have 24 seats. The extra cost is well worth the legroom. Also, stick to government buses operated from each city's proper bus terminal. Many private companies sell VIP tickets for major routes, but put you on a standard bus. Ideally, buses are best for short excursions; expect to pay a minimum of 50B (US$1.25/77p) for a one-way ticket. Longer-haul buses are an excellent value (usually less than $1 per hour of travel), but can be very slow.

Warning: When traveling by long-distance bus, do not accept drinks or snacks from fellow Thai travelers; they can be spiked. And watch your possessions closely: Thievery is common, particularly on overnight buses when valuables are left in overhead racks.

By Taxi, Tuk-Tuk & Songtaew:

By law, taxis must charge by the meter. If you look outwardly like a tourist, a driver may try to scam you into paying a hefty fare by refusing to use the meter. Get out and find a new taxi if that happens; and avoid stationary taxis (usually parked next to expensive hotels), as these tend to be the scam artists. Note that if you're journeying to an unsavory part of town, a taxi driver may refuse you, especially when it's coming up to shift change (3-4pm) or if the weather or traffic is bad.

If you have a foreign face and don't speak any Thai, you'll be lucky to find a tuk-tuk ride for less than 50B (US$1.25/77p), even for the shortest hops. Be sure to bargain hard with these guys, and don't let 'em take you for a ride (in other words, to shopping trips or to massage parlors). In most provincial areas and resort islands, small pickup trucks called songtaews cruise the main streets offering communal taxi service at cheap, set fees. As with tuk-tuks, always remember to agree on your fare before engaging a driver.

Note: Few taxi, tuk-tuk, or songtaew drivers speak even basic English, so have a copy of your hotel's name, street address, and district written in Thai with you at all times.

Tipping is always expected, though it's up to you if you want to round up the figure. Since taxi or tuk-tuk drivers often don't carry change, don't leave your hotel without some small bills.